Photo Tutorial - Rosie the Zombie Doll by Emily Taylor Desings

The Zombie Apocalypse continues at the Brisbane Stitches and Craft Show (20-23 March 2014). Come and visit us at Stand E15 to pick up a Rosie the Zombie Doll Pattern.

Rosie is a 97cm/ 38"tall soft toy designed by Emily Taylor. The pattern doesn't include any diagrams so we thought we'd put together a photo tutorial for everyone who has purchased the pattern to help them if they run into problems. 

*PLEASE NOTE - this is only a photo tutorial, the pattern must be purchased and is not included here. 

Designer Emily Taylor with her Rosie doll from the Riley Blake booth at the Houston Quilt Market last October.

STEP 1: Skirt

With right sides together place the SKIRT FRONT and SKIRT FRONT LINING pieces together, right sides together. Sew along the sides and bottom using a 1/4inch (6mm) seam allowance. Clip corners and turn right side out. 

Repeat for the SKIRT BACK and SKIRT BACK LINING pieces.

Fold and press the pleat on the SKIRT FRONT, each side of the pleat should be folded over approx. 1inch (2.5cm). 

Fold and sew bias tape to cover the raw edge on top of the SKIRT FRONT and SKIRT BACK.

STEP 2: Shirt

Fold and sew bias tape to cover the raw edge on top of the BLOUSE BACK and the long diagonal edge of BLOUSE FRONT A. Fold under the short curved edge of BLOUSE FRONT B and sew in place. I have used one of the decorative stitches on my sewing machine.

STEP 3: Face

Trace or freehand draw all of the face markings onto right side of the BODY FRONT piece. You can use chalk or an erasable fabric pen for this. 

Sew over the lines using either a decorative machine stitch or hand embroider. If you are going to use a sewing machine stitch I would recommend fusing interfacing or stabiliser to the wrong side of the face to give the fabric a bit more structure and help avoid the fabric puckering with the machine stitches.

Fuse the lip fabric to a piece of Vliesofix (you can also use a fabric glue pen), cut out the lip shapes and remove the backing paper from the Vliesofix and fuse the lips in place on the face. Stitch around the raw edge - I used a zigzag stitch to help minimise any fraying.

STEP 4: Hair

Place the FRONT HAIR piece on top of the FRONT BODY piece. I used 505 Basting Spray to hold it in place. Use a decorative machine or hand embroidery stitch to cover the bottom raw edge of the hair. 

Repeat for the BACK HAIR and BACK BODY pieces.

STEP 5: Clothing

Place BODICE FRONT B onto the FRONT BODY piece. Place BODICE FRONT A on top so that the raw edge of BODICE FRONT B is covered. Baste BODICE FRONT A and B into place, stitching 1/4 inch (6mm) in from each side.

Sew along the top diagonal of BODICE FRONT A 1-2mm in from the top edge of the bias binding.

Place BODICE BACK onto the BACK BODY piece and baste in place 1/4inch (6mm) in on each side.

Place SKIRT FRONT onto of the BODY FRONT piece so that the edges line up and the raw edges of the bodice pieces are covered. Baste into place 1/4inch (6mm) in from each side.

Repeat to attach the SKIRT BACK onto the BODY BACK.

STEP 6: Arms

Fold under the bottom edge of the SLEEVE pieces and stitch in place.

Place one SLEEVE on top of an ARM piece, baste in place. Repeat for the other ARM.

Fold the ARM pieces in half with right sides together and sew down the side and around the bottom curve using a 1/2inch (12mm) seam allowance. Trim back the seam allowance, clip (or pink) the curves and trim off the corner seam on an angle. Turn the ARMS right side out.

Stuff each arm firmly but leave the top inch or so free of stuffing. Baste the top opening closed.

STEP 7: Legs

Trace or freehand draw the leg markings onto right side of one of the LEG piece.  Fuse a piece of interfacing/stabiliser to the wrong side of the leg. Machine or hand embroider over the lines. 

Fold the LEG pieces in half with right sides together and sew down the side and around the bottom curve using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim back the seam allowance, clip (or pink) the curves and trim off the corner seam on an angle.

Turn the LEGS right side out.

Stuff each leg firmly but leave the top inch or so free of stuffing. Baste the top opening closed.

STEP 8: Assembling your Zombie

Pin and baste the arms into position on right side of the FRONT BODY piece. 

Pin and baste the legs into position under the skirt on the right side of the bottom of the FRONT BODY piece.  

Place the BACK BODY on top of the FRONT BODY. The arms should be sandwiched in between the two pieces but fold the legs down so that they sit outside of the body.

Sew around the outside of the Zombie's body starting a the marking 1/2" up from the bottom of the body on one side and finishing at the marking on the other side.

Turn the doll right sides out. If any of the seams don't sit flat trim them back a little or clip/pink them, especially on the curves. 

Stuff your Zombie firmly with Toy stuffing, fold in the bottom 1/2inch (12mm) seam allowance.

Sew the Zombie closed with a ladder stitch.

Finish off Rosie's face by sewing mis-matched buttons onto her face.

- Ky

Tutorial - Adding Adjustable Straps to a Backpack

Adjustable bag straps are the best! Not all patterns have adjustable straps though (like Horrible Harry's Pirate Backpack Pattern). Here is a quick and easy tutorial on how to make adjustable straps for a kid's backpack. You can also use the same technique for handbags, tote bags etc.

Make the straps as per the pattern instructions. This particular pattern has straps that are 70cm (28") long with a finished sewn width of 2.5cm (1"). To make the adjustable straps you will require some hardware, we have used 4 x 25mm (1") Slide Adjusters.

Step 1: Bottom Ring Strap - Cut off an 8-10cm (3-4") piece from the end of each strap. Fold each piece in half around one side of each slide adjuster to form a loop.

Sew horizontally across the strap as close as possible to the slide adjuster. This keeps the slide in place and stops them from twisting around.

Step 2: Adjustable Strap - Take a long strap and zigzag across one of the short ends to help stop the fabric from fraying. Thread the strap through the slide adjuster (under the outer part, over the inner bar & back out under the outer part).

Tuck approximately 3cm (1.25 in) back towards the main part of the strap to make a loop over the inner bar of the slide adjuster. The shortest length of strap should be on the bottom and the right side of the slide adjuster should be facing up.

Sew a rectangle shape (instead of just straight across) when joining to make the strap sturdier. Repeat for the other long strap piece.

You should now have two short Bottom Ring Straps and two long Adjustable Straps.

Step 3: Attaching the Bottom Ring Straps - Sew the bottom ring straps into the base of your backpack. The right sides of the slide adjusters should face outwards when the straps are pushed upwards.

Step 4: Attaching the Adjustable Straps - Place the bag down on its back and fold the Bottom Ring Strap downwards away from the bag. Place the wrong side of the Adjustable Strap up, so you can see the zig zagged edge. Thread the Adjustable Strap through the Bottom Ring.

Loop the strap back up and thread through the Slide Adjuster (under the outer ring, over the inner bar, under the outer ring).  The zig zagged edge will now be covered. Pull through until the Slide Adjuster is about 10 cm away from the Bottom Ring. 

Sew the top of the adjustable straps to the top of the backpack per the regular pattern instructions.

Pin Me!!

Voila! You now have a finished backpack with shiny new adjustable straps!

- Ky

Photo Tutorial - Zombie Apocalypse Panel Soft Toy

The Zombie Apocalypse has started at the Brisbane Stitches and Craft Show (20-23 March 2014). Come and visit us at Stand E15 to pick up a Zombie Toy panel which will only be available at the show.

We first saw Emily Taylor's Zombie Apocalypse doll panel while looking through images of the Riley Blake Designs booth from the Houston Quilt Market at the end of October last year (2013). To say we were excited would be an understatement.

Original Photo from Riley Blake Design's blog

There are only limited written instructions included on the panel so to help our newer sewists we thought a photo tutorial was in order. Please note that all seam allowances are 1/4" (6mm) unless noted otherwise.

ZOE the ZOMBIE GIRL

Step 1 - Cutting out the pieces: All of the pattern pieces are printed on the fabric and should be cut out on the printed line. Make sure you transfer the pattern markings for the arm positions onto Zoe's body and the pattern markings for the dog's ear and underbelly positions onto the body before you cut them out.

Step 2 - Zoe's Arms: Take an arm piece and fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch down the long straight edge and around the curve leaving the top edge open (the instructions say stitch from point A to B, this is incorrect). Clip the curve, we have used pinking shears on our sample. Make sure that you don't clip too close to the stitch line otherwise the seam will be weakened and may burst when you stuff the arms. Turn the arm right side out. Repeat for the other arm.

Step 3 - Zoe's Legs: Take a leg piece and fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch down the long straight edge and around the curve, leave the top edge open. Clip the curve. Turn right side out. Repeat for the other leg.

Step 4 - Stuff Arms and Legs: Stuff the legs and arms, leaving approx. 1/2 - 1inch (about 2cm) clear at the top. Baste the tops closed to keep the stuffing in place.

Step 5 - Attaching the Arms: Using the marks you made as a guide, place the arms on the right side of one of the body pieces so that they are facing inwards. Pin or baste in place. Zoe is Zombie on one side & pre-Zombie on the other. Make sure you put the Zombie sides all in the same direction.

Step 6 - Attaching the Legs: Place Zoe's legs on the right side of the same body piece so that the top leg seam is even with the bottom of her skirt and her toes are pointing up towards her head. I placed mine approx 1/2 inch (about 1.5 cm) to either side of the middle of the bottom of the skirt. Baste in place. Zoe is Zombie on one side & pre-Zombie on the other. Make sure you put the Zombie sides all in the same direction.

Step 7 - Zoe's Body: Place the body pieces on top of each other, right sides together with the arms in-between. Fold the legs down so that they are outside of the body and out of the way. Sew around Zoe's body leaving the bottom edge open a few inches for turning and stuffing. 

Step 8 - Finishing Up: Turn Zoe's body right side out and stuff firmly. Fold in the open edges and use ladder stitch to close.

BONES the ZOMBIE DOG

Step 1 - Ears: Place one spotted ear and one black ear piece together, right sides together. Sew around the ear leaving the top edge open. Clip the seams and turn right side out. Repeat for the other ear.

Step 2 - Bones' Underbelly Part 1: Place the underbelly piece onto the left body piece, right sides together and matching points F and E. Sew around the legs from point E to point F.

Step 3 - Bones' Underbelly part 2: Fold the sewn side of the underbelly up and out of the way so that you can place the remaining half onto the right body piece, right sides together and matching points C and D. Sew around the legs from point C to point D.

Step 4 - Bone's Body: Pin or baste the ears to the top of one of the body pieces using the ear placement markings. Sew around the top of Bones' body from points C/E to D/F catching the ears in between. Make sure you leave an opening for turning, I left open the section between the two yellow pins on his back.

Step 5 - Finishing Up: Clip around the curves and turn Bones right side out. Stuff with Toy stuffing and close up the opening using a ladder stitch.

Congratulations you have finished your Zombie Doll and Dog !!

For those of you who like to pin here is a pretty Pinterest image for you :)

Union Jack Repeat Panel by Riley Blake - Tote Bag Tutorial

Riley Blake fabrics have just released this cool little fabric panel featuring the Union Jacks. I saw a tutorial for a cute quilt and bag over on the Riley Blake blog. I didn't have the time to make up a quilt but these bag sew together super fast.

I have a few step-by-step photos that I took while I made up the bags. While I have made a few changes to the instructions the original tutorial can be used to fill in any blanks. Seam allowances are all 1/2" unless stated otherwise.

Step 1: Cut out your fabric

Bag Outer - 2 flags from the Union Jack Repeat Panel approx. 30.5cm x 51cm (12 x 20"). This is only 1/4 of the panel so you have plenty left to make more bags :)

Cut out lining and straps

Bag Lining - 30.5cm x 51cm (12 x 20")

Long strap - 10cm x 107cm (4" x 42") or

Short strap/s - (4" x 18")

Optional: Cut out and fuse Medium Fusible Interfacing to the wrong side of the outer bag and strap/s.

Step 2: Fold the bag outer in half with right sides together and sew the side seams. Trim the corners and press seams open.

Step 3: To make the boxed corners line the side seam up on top of the bottom fold of the bag to create triangles. Measure up 2.5cm (1") from the corner and draw a line. Sew over the line and trim off the excess fabric.

Step 4: To make the handles/strap fold the long edges into the middle of the fabric strip and press. Fold the pressed edges together and press. Topstitch on each side. You can also add extra rows of stitching in between these two lines of stitching.

Step 5: Pin the straps to the outside of the bag, matching the centre of the strap to the side seam. Stitch in place inside the seam allowance.

Step 6: Fold the lining in half with right sides together. Sew the side seams but leave an opening in one side, this is where the bag will be turned right side out once the lining has been sewn to the bag outer. Make the boxed corners as per step 3. 

Step 7: Put the outer bag inside the lining so that the right sides are together. Match up the side seams and sew around the top of the bag to join the lining to the bag outer.

Step 8: Pull the bag right side out through the gap you left in the lining. Press and stitch around top top of the bag 5mm (1/4") down from the top seam.

Step 9: Slip Stitch the lining closed.
The finished bag is approx. 23cm x 21c x 5.5cm (9" x 8-1/4" x 2-1/4")

Enjoy your new bag :)

- Ky

How To Add Pockets To Almost Any Outfit

I sew and draft a lot of clothes for myself and my family and everyone is always asking "Can you add pockets?" Today I thought I would share my go to pocket pattern and instructions. I have used this pattern piece and method to add simple in-seam pockets to dresses (eg The Marilyn Dress), boxer shorts and skirts. 

The pattern piece is just a bit larger than A4 so I have broken it into two parts to be printed on a home computer. Save the two jpg images below to your computer. Print out at full size (no scaling), the scaling ref box should be approx. 2.5cm (1") wide on your print out. Cut out the pattern pieces and join together at the "Join Here" line.

Pattern part 1:
Right click on image and select "save link as" from the drop down menu

Pattern part 2:
Right click on image and select "save link as" from the drop down menu

Step 1

Step1: Cut out pocket pieces out of fabric, you will have 2 for each pocket (usually 4 per garment).

Step 2

Step 2: Finish the edge of each pocket piece so it doesn't fray. I use a 3 thread overlock. If you don't have an overlocker you can use a zigzag stitch or similar on your sewing machine or trim with pinking shears.

Step 3

Step 3: With right sides together sew a pocket piece to the side seam of each front and back piece, lining up the top of the pocket with the waistband seam of the garment as shown in the diagram.

If your garment has an elastic waistband casing, the top of the pocket should sit just a bit higher than the bottom of the casing.

You don't need to sew across the top of your pocket - it will be sewn when you attach your waistband. If you sew across the top, you won't be able to open your pocket out for the next step.

Step 4

Step 4: Finish the side seam, press the pocket open along the stitch line. It will look a bit like puppy dog ears at this point :)

Step 5

Step 5: Place the front onto the back piece with right sides together.

Step 6

Step 6: Pin the side seams and pockets together. I also like to pin the pocket opening together along the seam line so that the pockets will be aligned correctly (as per diagram above). Sew around the pocket until you reach the side seam, pivot and finish sewing the side seam together.

Don't sew straight down the side seam from the waistband! Cloud did this on Saturday & felt like a right numpty. Good thing she knows how to use an unpicker :P

Step 7

Step 7: Press the pocket towards the front of the garment. Leave the pin at the top side seam in to hold the top of the pocket closed. Pin the top of pocket to the front waist seam, baste in place if desired. You want the pocket to be anchored to the waistband in some way so that it sits forward and doesn't move around inside your clothes in an unsightly fabric bunch.

Above: Circle skirt with in-seam pockets, the top of the pocket is sewn into the waistband to anchor it in place.

Left: Pocket added to a Marilyn Dress. The skirt on this dress is gathered but I didn't want the added bulk of the pocket included. The top of the pocket was kept free until the skirt was gathered and then laid down flat over the gathering to be sewn into the waist seam.

Right: Pocket in boxer shorts. Please excuse the crumples, the shorts had just come out of the washing machine :) The top of the pocket sits 0.5 - 1cm into the pocket casing so that it can be anchored in place when the casing is sewn down.

I'm not claiming that this is the only and best way add pockets, it is just the way that I do it and I hope that this helps everyone with making their clothes more practical.

Pretty Pinterest image for those that like to pin :)

- Ky