Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Alexander Henry Camouflage Pinup Girl Cargo pants

Ever since I first saw it I have thought that Camouflage Girls by Alexander Henry was calling to be made into a pair of cargo pants. Last week I had time to make them up and I must say that I quite pleased with the finished result.
The pattern is self drafted based on a pair of cargo pants that I owned years ago but because I have used my own pants block I was able to avoid the issue I often have with ready to wear clothing. Namely the gapey bit around the back waist band. The original pair of cargos had a draw string which cinched in the waistband but if you are going to go to the trouble of making your own clothing, then it should fit properly :) 
Like all good cargo pants there are heaps of pockets, including the box pockets on each side leg, patch hip pockets and back patch pockets. I have used antique brass press studs and buttons. It also has a zippered fly front. If you have trouble inserting a zippered front fly you might like to try using this tutorial. It is by Martyn Smith and I've not had any issues since I've started using it. 

Next I really have to draft myself a pair of jeans, last time I went jeans shopping (5 years or so ago :) I had to try on a dozen pairs to find 2 that fit. Of course there are at least 5 other things that need to be sewn up first.

What's on everyone else's to sew list?
- Ky

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Friday, July 26, 2013

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Hummingbird Skirt hack in Secret Ladybug by Timeless Treasures

I am in love with this skirt & I am in love with how good I feel when I wear it! So many compliments have come my way since I put it on this morning that it impossible not to be bursting with confidence. Even better is the knowledge that I made this skirt (with lots of help from Ky) so no-one else has one like it in the whole world.

We started off with the front of the Hummingbird Skirt by Cake Patterns. I love the structured lines and the pockets. The red and black Secret Ladybug fabric really works well with the black flat piping and the colour blocked sections for the pockets. The pockets are fantastically huge!


The rest of the skirt was drafted by Ky from a skirt block she did for me years ago. Ky figured out the kick-pleat from instructions in one of her pattern making books.
Double inverted kick pleat
I had to be really careful cutting this out. Nothing would be worse than spots that don't line up across the hip line! Fussy cutting isn't easy but I really enjoy it. To me, it can make or break a project. It really adds to a professional looking finish.



Secret Ladybug is a quilting weight cotton so we needed to add structure to make this skirt work (it was designed for a heavier weight fabric). Ky did a bit of research & found the answer - interlining! We used Northcott Colorworks Tomato for the interlining because it was a similar weight to the Secret Ladybug and it also brightened up the reds on the front. Sounds weird but it's true! We put black underneath to begin with and it dulled down the colours when it was held up to the light.

Interlining meant that I had to cut the skirt out twice and hand sew all the pieces togther but it was worth it. The final fabric is soft but thick. It feels so nice against my skin and it doesn't seem to wrinkle as much as a single layer of cotton fabric would when I wear it.

Hand basting the layers together
Basting complete
I sewed up the front of the skirt and Ky sewed up the back. We used a lapped zipper because, for some weird reason, invisible zips hate me and always break. Ky then worked out the logistics of putting in the back kick pleat. The Hummingbird pattern has a big flounce option but I wanted something small & not so showy because I wanted to really feature the front of the skirt instead. Next time, if I use a plain fabric, it will be all about the flounce! We chose Northcott Colorworks Black for the kick pleat instead of the Secret Ladybug to make it a bit more obvious and to balance out the black pocket panels and flat piping on the front.

The original Hummingbird skirt pattern is more straight than mine. This skirt was made for the Rockabilly Riot show so I wanted it to be a body skimming pencil skirt. We made the skirt the same as a Hummingbird and then Ky graded it from the hip line down to my knees in the classic pencil shape. Add the high waistband and voila!


I can't see my love affair with this skirt ending anytime soon!

- Cloud

Sunday, July 21, 2013

New Fabric and Haberdashery in Store this Week - July 21

Good Morning Bunnies we hope everyone is having a lovely weekend. We thought we would start doing a weekly recap each Sunday on all of the exciting new items that have been added to our web store in the previous week. This week we have embroidery supplies as well as some new fabrics by Makower UK and Robert Kaufman.
Top Row
Middle Row
Bottom Row

We also still have a couple of spaces available in the Hummingbird Top and Skirt Workshop, this is a great opportunity to work with the pattern designer. We'd love to see you there :)
Hummingbird Top and Skirt Sewing Workshop with StephC from Cake Patterns (4 weeks from 30 July)
- Ky and Cloud